[Strangler Lewis]

Some chains are just godawful. Chili's comes to mind, and Applebee's is not far behind. Plus, if health is a concern--and by health I mean fat and calories, not food poisoning--chains are probably your worst bet because the portions tend to be enormous and their sauces are almost certainly full of sugar. Of course, I think that can be said about most places along the Monterey pier since they've decided that their touristy clientele like that kind of thing.

Another reason I dislike them is that a number of the newer, larger locations, particularly those at malls, are about as pleasant to be in as being stuck in traffic on the 405. I realize that many tendy urban restaurants are designed to magnify the din and create the illusion of buzz. I don't especially like this either, but somehow it's better than being somewhere that seems to say, "We're great because we're noisy, and we're noisy because we're large."

Nothing wrong with familiarity and trust. On the other hand, I remember watching my erstwhile favorite bakery--which served better coffee and better desserts--languishing empty on the morning of the Butter and Egg Day parade while the line spilled out the door of the Starbuck's down the street. This was particularly ironic since the parade was supposed to be celebrating local ag. business.

I recognize that I have conflicting opinions in these areas. On the whole I feel the country was healthier when people went out to local restaurants on a Saturday night and then all sat down to watch the CBS television lineup.