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Old 10-05-2006, 10:23 AM   #11
Ghoulish Delight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Promo-Man
If the lip of your counter top is thick enough to hide it you might want to put in some furring strips to raise your counter top so that your dishwasher will clear the counter top. I would still try to fill the gap in the floor height if possible.
Of course leveling the floor would be ideal, but simply not feasible at this point. And the counter edge is bullnose, so it does't exten bellow the level of the counter. Now, it may be that the new counter sits a little and we can get away with it, but at this point it's a crap shoot and the safest thing for me to do to guarantee an installed diswhasher is to get it hosed up and into place before the counters go in. Yes, the best thing to do would be start from scratch to be sure it can be removed in the future, but time and budget concerns at paramount at this point.
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Old 10-05-2006, 10:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghoulish Delight
Now, it may be that the new counter sits a little and we can get away with it, but at this point it's a crap shoot and the safest thing for me to do to guarantee an installed diswhasher is to get it hosed up and into place before the counters go in.
GD, after the dishwasher is installed, will you have access to its water valve, so you could isolate it, should a hose burst or leak (without removing the counter)?

We maybe overthinking this, I bet the dishwasher will fit. Did you ever get a chance to take a measurement of the proposed opening?
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:01 AM   #13
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Yes, the cutoff valve is under the sink, access shouldn't be a problem.

Considering that I don't have the dishwasher yet, no, I haven't done measurements. Once the unit arrives, I'll do some eyballing to see if I might be able to get away with it...but I'll still put the thing in first. The absolute worst thing would be to assume it'll slide in post-counter only to find out it won't. I'd rather worry about how to get it out 7 years later when I'm leaving than how to get it in when I'm going to have to live with it for 7 years.
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:29 AM   #14
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And if it won't come out later, you just completely dismantle it through destructive force with it still in place.

Also had to remove a couch once (it came with the apartment and then we bought a new one) where the easiest thing to do was tear it to pieces in our living room and take it out as lumber and springs (we have no idea how they got it into the arpartment to begin with, which is why it came with the apartment).
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Old 10-05-2006, 04:44 PM   #15
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Best install if the counters are standard hight from the top new floor and not the slab.

Use thinset and wonderboard not plywood to level the floor if you go that way. Diamond blade on a 4" grinder scores it nice so you can break it off to fit. Thinset Needs 24 hours to dry before full streangth though. You would need two 1/2 " pieces but you could cut them out of one 4 X 8 if the dimensions work out. Just keep the two layers of mud to 1/2" and your all set.
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Old 10-05-2006, 04:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tramspotter
Best install if the counters are standard hight from the top new floor and not the slab.
Hmm, I'm pretty sure I've already said that that's not an option. The base cabinets are staying as is and the counter edge would leave any sort of shim or furring strips that would raise the counter by the necessary 1.5" or so visible. So, once again, I'm left with very little option other than to make due with what I've got.
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Old 10-05-2006, 05:43 PM   #17
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What if you install a little bit of base board or some sort of trim that would cover the edge and at least camoflauge it a bit. I know nothing about construction and floors - but I do know a bit about cabinetry and molding - so I have no idea if that's even feasable with that thinset and wonderboard stuff (again, I have no idea what that is.)
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghoulish Delight
Hmm, I'm pretty sure I've already said that that's not an option. The base cabinets are staying as is and the counter edge would leave any sort of shim or furring strips that would raise the counter by the necessary 1.5" or so visible. So, once again, I'm left with very little option other than to make due with what I've got.
So you have a non-standard countertop hight or it was standard but net to the concrete slab? So the whole line of basecabs sit on slab too is that correct?

And your countertop guys can"t face in a nice matching strip of wood to bring the counter up to standard hight? what kind of counter are you getting laminate, tile, solid surface (ie corian) granite/marble?

If your dishwasher/trashcompactor whatever ****s the bed the world of hurt to replace anything but laminate. And if its a nice install for the latter materials they should raise you up with furring and a nice faceboard that matches your installed wood. A laminated facia board woulden't be that big a deal either if they are doing the laminating carpentry on site, if prebuilt perhaps a bigger deal. The leveling of the floor isn't their problem but if installing a counter they should be able to raise it more so if its custom made in anyway. then you can level the floor and install the dishwasher or whatever else at your leisure.
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jughead P. Jones
I wish I could help you out, but my two dishwashers are completely different from yours...

I call them Left Hand and Right Hand...
So, you have a digital dishwasher?
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Old 10-06-2006, 08:13 AM   #20
Ghoulish Delight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tramspotter
So you have a non-standard countertop hight or it was standard but net to the concrete slab? So the whole line of basecabs sit on slab too is that correct?

And your countertop guys can"t face in a nice matching strip of wood to bring the counter up to standard hight? what kind of counter are you getting laminate, tile, solid surface (ie corian) granite/marble?

If your dishwasher/trashcompactor whatever ****s the bed the world of hurt to replace anything but laminate. And if its a nice install for the latter materials they should raise you up with furring and a nice faceboard that matches your installed wood. A laminated facia board woulden't be that big a deal either if they are doing the laminating carpentry on site, if prebuilt perhaps a bigger deal. The leveling of the floor isn't their problem but if installing a counter they should be able to raise it more so if its custom made in anyway. then you can level the floor and install the dishwasher or whatever else at your leisure.
Yes, all of that could be done, but as I also said elsewhere, time and budget are primary considerations at this point. We're already over budget and off schedule on this install, any custom modifications (and we're going through Home Depot, so I can't even guaratnee the lazy/litigation-fearing twerps will do it) are out of the question.

All I want to do is have the counter installed and the dishwasher where it should be. And all I needed to know is if there's anything other than hooking a few hoses and a power cord up to feed through under the sink before sliding it into place. If not, then my problems are solved.
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